How To Draw A Horse Head In Six Easy Steps

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How to Draw a Horse Head Step by Step - Easy - Narrated

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Start with this simple rule: Wait for the right moment to make a change. At least once a week, ride your horse without whips, spurs or, if you use one, a double bridle.


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  • How To Draw A Horse Head In Six Easy Steps.

Once your horse is listening to your aids and maintaining the gait you want, always use the same leg aids—with the same placement and amount of pressure—so he knows exactly what you expect him to respond to. I like my horses to be extremely electric. Many riders might not be comfortable on a horse who is so sensitive to the leg. You must decide what feels like an ideal aid to you and then teach your horse to respond to that same aid every time. A great test of a self-going horse is transitions.

I ask Fizau to stretch and compress his frame like a rubber band.

Step by Step Horse Drawing Tutorial

We start down the long side of the arena in a forward working trot. Then I ask him to stretch his frame out for a few strides of medium trot. Notice how he is doing all the work here? Before making a downward transition, I touch him with my legs to remind him to engage his hindquarters.

How To Draw a Horse

I allow him to take a few steps of working trot before asking him to compress his frame even further into a collected trot. Another important concept to understand is that forward is not a speed.


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Think of driving a car. Going more forward is having more power, or RPMs. Going faster is increasing your miles per hour. On the other hand, a naturally hot horse can also fool you by being fast but still behind your leg. One of the moments in the rubber-band exercise that many riders underappreciate is the downward transition.

To remind my horses to stay engaged and keep coming to the bit during downward transitions, I touch them with my legs before applying my rein aids. To help your horse maintain the gait and speed you choose, hear the rhythm in your head. The more you practice the rubber-band exercise correctly, the more self-going your horse will become. Use it frequently to test his responsiveness. Get creative. Then when you shorten the reins, try the exercise again. Retraining a horse who is not self-going is more challenging than teaching a young horse this concept from the very beginning of his training.

But persevere.


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  4. The concept is the same with an upper-level horse, only with much more demanding movements. I ask Tornado to begin the exercise with a few steps of passage. Then I ask for a transition to piaffe. He carries the forward momentum from the passage into this more collected movement, channeling the energy upward through his knees and hocks.

    We then make another transition to passage, stretching the rubber band back out a little. One critical ingredient in creating the self-going horse is for both of you to show up to work. From the time I put my foot in the stirrup, my horses know that they are working. Give plenty of praise when he gets it right. Doing something right gives them a little ego boost. Whatever level you are, think like a trainer. Try to identify his strengths and weaknesses objectively and fairly.

    Treat all horses as individuals. Later in his career, that quickness may actually make learning the piaffe easier for him than for a slower, more cadenced horse.

    If you ride only one horse it can be difficult to stay objective. Step back, leave your emotions out of it, and look at his progress over time rather than day to day. Good training is as much about us respecting the horse as it is about the horse respecting us. Every horse will struggle at times, and we must make an effort to understand the difference between struggling and defiance. Horses know when they make mistakes. For example, if I ask my young horse to trot more forward and he accidentally canters, although I am quick to correct him and bring him back to the trot, I am equally quick to praise him for his response.

    By rewarding his effort, I create a partner who is always willing to try. The smaller the horse, the better it will fit in a slant load trailer. It's our opinion that the only positive trait to a slant load is that you can stack more horses in a shorter trailer. A well designed, easy to lift, low angled ramp with springs across the bottom of the ramp not on the sides is better than a step up, especially on all two horse straight load trailers.

    Without a ramp, there is always the danger of a horse backing out, stepping down, and sliding under the back of the trailer. A hot day, a bee in the trailer, etc. A ramp eliminates the possibility of a horse sliding under the trailer from ever happening. Note: don't let some dealer tell you that a horse can slide under the side of a ramp or step off the side and get seriously hurt. We feel that the best stall situation is one in which the horses are traveling straight, head forward, no lower center divider, no back post, and the horses head is tied with enough rope to let him stretch his neck, especially if he is eating hay in the trailer.

    He will need to be able to cough out any hay that might get into his respiratory system.

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    How to draw a Horse's Head | Easy Drawing Guides

    A quick release snap is important, but not one that will release on its own. We have designed and developed a special lead rope that is adjustable in a way that a horse can't get caught in it, and will quick release on both ends. It's our opinion that the only advantage to a slant load is exactly the same reason why they were first developed. One can stack more horses in a shorter trailer. Although many articles have been written since then that have tried to support that slant loads provide a better ride for horses, none that we have found, have been accurate.

    The negatives to slant loads are numerous. If a front horse has a problem, you can't reach it without unloading the other horses unless you have a front unload ramp. Tow vehicles are always moving forward even when they make turns. During all that stopping and starting, a horse needs to plant its front and back feet for balance, rather than standing on an angle where its constantly falling on its front forward leg, and rear hind leg. The stall length is rarely big enough unless your horses are very small.

    Most horses that are 16 hands plus will have their noses pushed up against the road side wall, and their butts squeezed against the ditch side wall. The size problem comes from the limitation of what the legal width of a trailer can be.